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Type A Chlorinated Rubber Pool Paint Application Guide
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Type A Chlorinated Rubber Pool Paint Application Guide


Overview

Ramuc premium Type A Chlorinated Rubber has been used in the industry for decades restoring and protecting plaster, concrete, and gunite pool surfaces. It is an excellent choice for recoating previously painted chlorinated rubber surfaces and is formulated to provide excellent hiding and superior coverage rates compared to other chlorinated rubber paints. Chlorinated rubber is not for use on spas or whirlpools.

For compatibility purposes, the existing paint on previously painted surfaces of a pool should be determined before painting. If existing surface is unknown, a sample should be submitted for testing to determine the type of existing surface. Paint chips can be sent to Aqua-Man to be forwarded to the Ramuc laboratory for analysis.

Aged plaster should be checked for integrity. Check for hollow or weak/crumbling plaster by using a ball-peen hammer or any other comparable method. Perform repairs to the plaster before painting.

Supplies Needed:

  • Cleaning Products:
    1. Tri-sodium phosphate (TSP)1
    2. TMuriatic or sulfamic acid1 solution
    3. High-pressure power washer (Recommended)
  • Condensation test material:
    1. Several two-foot square transparent pieces of plastic
    2. Duct tape
    3. Abrasion material (used to create a medium grade sandpaper profile for fiberglass surfaces or previously painted epoxy surfaces):
      1. Sandpaper #80 grit, power sander, or wire brush
    4. Painting supplies:
        No larger than 3/8" nap roller2 made for solvent based paint
      1. Paint brush for detailing2
      2. 5 gallon bucket for boxing (intermixing) paint
      3. Mechanical mixer (this simply can be a paddle attachment2 to a power drill)
      4. Ramuc Thinner or xylene for thinning paint, cleaning-up tools and spills
    5. Joint or crack filler:
      1. Hydraulic cement1 or Durathane polyurethane sealant or any other submersible polyurethane sealant. Do not use silicone-based products, as paint adhesion will be adversely affected.
    6. 1Included in Ramuc Surface Preparation Kit
    7. 2 Included in Ramuc Application Kit

The keys to a successful pool or deck paint job are proper SURFACE PREPARATION AND CORRECT APPLICATION. By following these simple 1-2-3 steps, you’re ensuring virtually maintenance-free paint service on your pool. General Surface Preparation techtips/TechChlorA.jpg Immediately after the pool is emptied, begin the preparation process.

  1. Plaster, concrete, or gunite surfaces should be tested for integrity and soundness. Pool paint is not a Band-Aid for weak surfaces. Water blast the surface to remove loose paint and dirt. Then, scrub the entire pool with a soap/tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) solution to remove all dirt, oils, loose or peeling paint, and chalk. Should any minor repairs need to be made, such as hydraulic cement patch or crack joint filling, do them at this time. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
  2. All surfaces should then be acid etched with a 15-20% solution of muriatic or sulfamic acid to achieve a medium grade sandpaper finish on bare concrete or plaster and to remove mineral deposits. Neutralize/rinse with TSP and water.

Condensation Test

After all cleaning in completed, allow the pool surface to dry.

Average dry times vary regionally and are dependent upon the porosity of the surface. It is recommended to wait five dry days and then perform a condensation test to determine surface dryness.

To determine dryness, perform this simple test - Duct tape 2' x 2' pieces of transparent plastic to the deep end wall and floor, and on several other areas of the pool. Wait three hours to determine if condensation has formed underneath the plastic. If condensation has formed underneath the plastic then the surface is not dry enough to paint. Remove the plastic and wait 24 hours to perform the test again. Continue with the test until no condensation forms underneath the plastic after the three-hour wait period. This ensures the surface is dry enough to apply chlorinated rubber pool paint.

Mixing The Paint

Type A Chlorinated Rubber is self-priming; no other type of primer is recommended or should be used. Ramuc Thinner can be used to thin paint by 10%. Mechanically mix the paint to achieve uniform consistency and color. If you are using more than one (1) gallon of paint at a time, remember to box (intermix) several gallons together. Application & Technical Data techtips/TechChlorA.jpg

Application

  • Use no more than a 3/8" nap roller made for solvent based paint. Apply at the recommended coverage rate. Ideal air temperatures for application are between 50-90°F.
Surface temperature should be at least 50°F.

Do not paint when rain is imminent.

Use dark colors for accent painting only.

Cure Rates

  • Outdoor pool - 5-7 dry days
  • Indoor pool - 10-14 days
  • If rain occurs during the curing process, allow an extra day of dry time for each day of rain.
  • Rain or moisture can cause blistering, color blushing, and the finish could be altered. Dry time to touch - 15 minutes
  • To recoat - 24 hours
  • Finish - high gloss
  • Primer - all Ramuc paints are self-priming

Coverage

  • 200 - 300 sq.ft. on bare, sandblasted, or rough surfaces.
  • 350 - 400 sq. ft. on recoats (actual coverage will vary and is dependent upon the texture and profile of the surface)
  • Minimum dry film per coat - 1.0 mils dry (3.2 mils wet)
  • Maximum dry film per coat - 2.0 mils dry (6.2 mils wet)
  • Clean-up - Ramuc Thinner

Technical Data

  • Weight/gallon - 10.2 ± 0.2 lbs.
  • Solids by weight - 55% ± 1%
  • Solids by volume - 36% ± 1%
  • V.O.C. - Does not exceed 600 g/l

Spray Information

  • V.O.C. - Does not exceed 600 g/l
  • Tip size - 765 cap a needle
  • Airless - 2000-2500 p.s.i.
  • Tip size - .013-.017 B-515
Special Situations techtips/TechChlorA.jpg

Blushing - Fading - Chalking

The Cause:

  • The pool is filled too soon (see cure rates) before the paint is completely cured, causing a blush over the surface which looks like fading or chalking.
  • Super-chlorinated water may cause a "bleached-out" look.
  • The "shock" of calcium hypochlorite can cause a white, bleached look to the paint film, leaving a whitish deposit
  • Iron in the water from rust in the filter system may leave deposits and stain the film.

The Solution

  • Scrub surface using a solution of soap and water. This will remove surface dirt and deposits.
  • Wet with a weak (2-3%) solution of muriatic acid. Acid will remove iron stains without damaging the paint film.
  • Solvent wipe affected areas with Ramuc Thinner.
  • Check your pool water chemistry daily or weekly for calcium hardness, total alkalinity, and balanced pH.
  • Extremely corrosive water can ultimately cause deterioration or breakdown of a paint film over a period of years.
  • Be sure the newly painted pool surface dries at least five dry, sunny days before filling.

Blistering

The Cause

  • Using a nap roller larger than 3/8", draws air into paint film
  • Applying paint too thick
  • Painting on a damp surface
  • Filling the pool before the paint is cured
  • Incompatible paints
  • Painting over any silicone primers or sealants including curing agents

The Solution

  • Apply at recommended coverage rates
  • All paintable surfaces must be dry prior to painting with chlorinated rubber
  • Chlorinated rubber paint must cure for 5 dry days (outdoor pool), and 10 dry days (indoor pool)
  • If in doubt as to type of coating that is on the pool now, send a paint chip to Aqua-Man.com for analysis.